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For someone like me who enjoys walking, it was big fun to stroll in Amsterdam. I stayed in the north quarter, an old manufacturing/warehouse region that seems to be getting gentrified. It’s across the Noordzkanaal (“North Sea Canal”) which as it sounds has long been the waterway leading to the heart of old Amsterdam. When I travel and the opportunity is safely available, I avoid Uber and simply use my legs, I can better see the sites, as well as make direct encounters and occasional exchanges with local people. In this bicycle Mecca, using leg power could also mean pedaling, but rather than risk getting in the way of the thousands of experienced bikers zipping past on the broad bike lanes (usually between 20-25 mph), I chose to use the sidewalks and saunter.
It was a 15-20 minute walk to the channel, and the orderly path led me through several modest apartment complexes, past a few small restaurants and retail shops, elementary schools, and more pricey-looking, slick high rises either new or still under construction. I assume the latter were for the new wave of young professionals. When I reached the channel, a half dozen ferries run non-stop during the day, for free, offering about a two minute ride that saves much time and several miles getting to the nearest bridge. They’re timed so there’s always one loading a fresh group of pedestrians or bicyclists (including fat wheeled electric-assists, and many front carriage bikes for stowing young people) all of them weave rapidly along, and both walkers and bikers are keenly aware of one another and the occasional auto-crossing intersections. People seem polite, direct, friendly, and efficient.
Once across the water, we had a striking view of the very cool Film Museum and Institute, and a tall building with a tower (and people in swings on the top deck) which I assume keeps an eye on the ferry and barge traffic. Regrettably there wasn’t enough time in my three-day stay to take either in.
We disembarked the ferry like a gush of pedestrians and bikers pouring onto the walkways of Amsterdam Central Station. It’s a sprawling waterfront nexus for the ferries, public trains, and hundreds of shops and eateries of all types for both tourists and locals. I walked through and when I emerged from the station, all at once the buildings evoke the feel of centuries past.
The style of the architecture is a curious mix of clean-lined modernism, highlighting simple materials, mixed (esp. in the older parts of town) with the eclectic variety of style from the 17th - 19th century, and a smattering of even older landmarks. One gets the feeling that generally buildings are rarely razed, so the contrast between modern statements and old stone with elaborate decorative elements is intriguing. Interspersed are the dreaded MacDonalds, KFC, and Targets, as well as tourist traps (like stores dedicated to little rubber-ducks — canals are every few blocks so I guess this is cutely symbolic?). There are also plenty of shops with local edibles like chocolates, cheeses, and unexpected to me, waffles.
Broad sidewalks (15 feet wide) are set apart from bike lanes, which are also separate from auto lanes, and electric trolleys/bus tracks are laid within the auto routes. Beyond all these, several of the main thoroughfares I walked paralleled canals, so one gets the engaging view of beautiful old architecture reflected in the water. It was decidedly gray, but ‘tis the season; it’s still winter here. It did allow better views of the buildings. There are some trees on these broad boulevards, and I saw lots of sprouting tulip bulbs for sale. There were a few trees blooming and crocus here and there. The temperatures reached about 45 F. Between the excitement of visiting and my wool stocking cap, scarf, and light jacket I was plenty comfy.
There were so many intriguing places I wanted to stop to visit: narrow, four-story bookshops, The Goethe Institute, several galleries and dozens of eateries, a Zen center, but I simply didn’t have the time. I feel like maybe given a few weeks I could begin to get a taste of this very appealing city. It seemed there were people from all across the globe here. I heard accents or met folks from Eritrea, England, India, Poland, Afghanistan, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Morocco, Ireland. It’s a very cosmopolitan place so if you prefer only white milk toast, it’s probably not for you. I always felt completely safe, so long as I watched for bicyclists when I crossed streets! There were some expansive and rustic grand plazas with old brick or stone pavement, people pleasantly sharing the space, and a bonus to come across some busking comics and jugglers, and especially the delightful music of a pianist as I returned from the famed Rijksmuseum.
I can’t say I’m entirely objective, but the people I passed consistently seemed glowing and beautiful. (I’ll refrain from exploring how their more open attitude about sexuality may be part of why.) The bikers in particular looked especially vital. I’m sure robust daily exercise in the brisk clean air contributes (it was a fresh contrast for me after weeks of walking in overwhelming Nairobi diesel fumes). There are people of all ages riding: in their 70’s+, middle-aged white collared professionals, parents hauling toddlers, teens, and children over the age of five or six. It’s easy to get the impression they’re robust and happy folks here. And hard not to wish our car-addicted America could have a major intervention and retool our culture more toward this lifestyle, with its vibrancy, embrace of people from across the globe, and appreciation of old and new.
It was a 15-20 minute walk to the channel, and the orderly path led me through several modest apartment complexes, past a few small restaurants and retail shops, elementary schools, and more pricey-looking, slick high rises either new or still under construction. I assume the latter were for the new wave of young professionals. When I reached the channel, a half dozen ferries run non-stop during the day, for free, offering about a two minute ride that saves much time and several miles getting to the nearest bridge. They’re timed so there’s always one loading a fresh group of pedestrians or bicyclists (including fat wheeled electric-assists, and many front carriage bikes for stowing young people) all of them weave rapidly along, and both walkers and bikers are keenly aware of one another and the occasional auto-crossing intersections. People seem polite, direct, friendly, and efficient.
Once across the water, we had a striking view of the very cool Film Museum and Institute, and a tall building with a tower (and people in swings on the top deck) which I assume keeps an eye on the ferry and barge traffic. Regrettably there wasn’t enough time in my three-day stay to take either in.
We disembarked the ferry like a gush of pedestrians and bikers pouring onto the walkways of Amsterdam Central Station. It’s a sprawling waterfront nexus for the ferries, public trains, and hundreds of shops and eateries of all types for both tourists and locals. I walked through and when I emerged from the station, all at once the buildings evoke the feel of centuries past.
The style of the architecture is a curious mix of clean-lined modernism, highlighting simple materials, mixed (esp. in the older parts of town) with the eclectic variety of style from the 17th - 19th century, and a smattering of even older landmarks. One gets the feeling that generally buildings are rarely razed, so the contrast between modern statements and old stone with elaborate decorative elements is intriguing. Interspersed are the dreaded MacDonalds, KFC, and Targets, as well as tourist traps (like stores dedicated to little rubber-ducks — canals are every few blocks so I guess this is cutely symbolic?). There are also plenty of shops with local edibles like chocolates, cheeses, and unexpected to me, waffles.
Broad sidewalks (15 feet wide) are set apart from bike lanes, which are also separate from auto lanes, and electric trolleys/bus tracks are laid within the auto routes. Beyond all these, several of the main thoroughfares I walked paralleled canals, so one gets the engaging view of beautiful old architecture reflected in the water. It was decidedly gray, but ‘tis the season; it’s still winter here. It did allow better views of the buildings. There are some trees on these broad boulevards, and I saw lots of sprouting tulip bulbs for sale. There were a few trees blooming and crocus here and there. The temperatures reached about 45 F. Between the excitement of visiting and my wool stocking cap, scarf, and light jacket I was plenty comfy.
There were so many intriguing places I wanted to stop to visit: narrow, four-story bookshops, The Goethe Institute, several galleries and dozens of eateries, a Zen center, but I simply didn’t have the time. I feel like maybe given a few weeks I could begin to get a taste of this very appealing city. It seemed there were people from all across the globe here. I heard accents or met folks from Eritrea, England, India, Poland, Afghanistan, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Morocco, Ireland. It’s a very cosmopolitan place so if you prefer only white milk toast, it’s probably not for you. I always felt completely safe, so long as I watched for bicyclists when I crossed streets! There were some expansive and rustic grand plazas with old brick or stone pavement, people pleasantly sharing the space, and a bonus to come across some busking comics and jugglers, and especially the delightful music of a pianist as I returned from the famed Rijksmuseum.
I can’t say I’m entirely objective, but the people I passed consistently seemed glowing and beautiful. (I’ll refrain from exploring how their more open attitude about sexuality may be part of why.) The bikers in particular looked especially vital. I’m sure robust daily exercise in the brisk clean air contributes (it was a fresh contrast for me after weeks of walking in overwhelming Nairobi diesel fumes). There are people of all ages riding: in their 70’s+, middle-aged white collared professionals, parents hauling toddlers, teens, and children over the age of five or six. It’s easy to get the impression they’re robust and happy folks here. And hard not to wish our car-addicted America could have a major intervention and retool our culture more toward this lifestyle, with its vibrancy, embrace of people from across the globe, and appreciation of old and new.
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